Gwangjang Market

Opened in 1905, Gwangjang is one of Korea's oldest permanent markets, and its covered food alley is where most visitors end up. Where the east and north gates meet, rows of stall counters fry mung bean pancakes (bindaetteok) on wide griddles, roll tiny mayak gimbap meant for dipping in mustard soy sauce, and plate up sundae, fish cakes and tteokbokki. Two long-running pancake shops, Bakga-ne and Sunhee-ne, sit side by side, so it is easy to compare. Yukhoe Alley, just off the main crossing, serves raw beef tartare with pear and egg yolk; Buchon Yukhoe was picked by the Michelin Guide in 2023. If you want something warm, hand-cut kalguksu stalls are tucked between the pancake counters. Upstairs, a vintage clothing arcade draws thrift shoppers on weekdays and Saturdays. Budget around 15,000 to 20,000 won a person for two or three dishes, and go before noon or mid-afternoon if you want a seat without a crush.