Somunnan Seongsu Gamjatang

Gamjatang is a hearty stew of pork backbone simmered with potato and dried radish greens, and Somunnan has been making it on Yeonmujang-gil since 1983, long before Seongsu filled with cafes and flagship stores. The big pot arrives piled with bones; you pull the tender meat off and dip it in the mustard-soy sauce, then finish by asking the staff to fry rice in the leftover broth, which regulars treat as the real ending. Solo diners can order gamjaguk, a single bowl of the same stew. The restaurant has two dining halls, the original and an annex just behind it, with long rows of tables and a brisk, no-frills service style. Seating is first come, first served with no number tickets, so you simply wait in line until staff wave you in. It runs around the clock, which means you can come for a late supper after the shops close or for a very early breakfast. A QR code on the menu brings up English, Chinese and Japanese versions. For photos, the steaming pot piled high with pork bones is the one.