Golmokjip (Mullae Duck House)

Golmokjip, whose name means 'the alley house', is a busy, no-frills duck restaurant on the edge of the Mullae Arts Village, and it gives a taste of how the neighborhood eats rather than how it photographs. The star is duck vegetable bulgogi: thin slices of duck in a sweet-savory marinade, cooked at the table on a hot stone griddle with heaps of chives, onion and carrot. Most tables order the set for two, which adds ogamtang, a hearty boneless duck-and-potato stew, and finishes with flying-fish-roe fried rice made on the same griddle in the leftover juices. The side dishes are a big part of the appeal, especially the scallion kimchi and a tangy ray salad served with thin noodles, and there is a self-serve corner of lettuce, perilla leaves, garlic and chilies for wraps. The restaurant was recently expanded, so the dining rooms run much deeper than the small alley entrance suggests, and staff help with cooking and explain how to eat each dish. It is loud, friendly and full of regulars of every age.